niskala : the unseen side of bali
There’s a kernel of truth in these objections, of course, but just as Surfers Paradise isn’t representative of Australia, southern beachside precincts like Kuta don’t reflect the broader island of Bali.The Bali that tourists rarely see is divided by locals into sekala (the seen) and niskala (the unseen). This notion itself can feel rather foreign to Westerners who, often unconsciously, tend to elevate sekala — the observable stuff — over the realm of niskala, the covert or occult.
Yet it is the latter which delivers some of the most intriguing aspects of Balinese culture.
1. NYEPI
Also known as the Day of Silence, this is possibly the most
appealing public holiday on the planet.The entire island shuts down for 24 hours: television and
radio stations go off air, the airport is closed and, next year, some are
suggesting the internet will be downed. (What? Yes!)No one ventures outside, nor speaks in tones louder than a
whisper. (Believe me, keeping three rambunctious kiddies quiet during Nyepi —
without the distraction of DVDs — is quite a feat.)The use of electricity and lighting is forbidden, as is
physical activity, sex and cooking.Everyone adheres to these conditions, because the Balinese
believe that evil spirits are flying high above the island, intent on
inflicting malevolent damage.By hiding in motionless silence for 24 hours, the Balinese
effectively dupe the evil spirits into thinking that their island is
uninhabited — thus prompting the spirits to stay away for another year.
2. PENGERUPUKAN
This is the night before Nyepi and the Balinese equivalent of
New Year’s Eve. Locals spend months beforehand preparing colossal ogoh-ogoh
monsters made of papier-mache, wood and clay.
3. NGABEN : DEATH IS A PART OF LIFE
