bali : finding the secret gateway to heaven
Bali is spoilt.” It’s a complaint I’ve heard regularly in the four years I’ve been based on the island. One made, I can tell, by travellers who’ve visited only the well-worn tourist areas. The truth is: Bali is – still – beyond beautiful. You just need to know where to look.
In the popular areas of Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur and Ubud, development has been rampant; most of the rice paddies have been choked into non-existence and traffic congestion is a huge problem. Many of the beaches are lined with hotels, beach bars, umbrellas and deckchairs. It’s easy to see why people think Bali has been spoilt.
But as soon as you step off the well-worn path, the traffic eases up, nature returns and the tropical allure of traditional Balinese life – the very thing that first attracted tourists to the island – flourishes.
Bali isn’t an island with an abundance of soft-sand white beaches – and most of them have been claimed by hotels or colonised by bars and restaurants. Due to its geology – it sits on the active Ring of Fire – most of the island’s beaches are a beautiful silver or deep grey sand.
This list highlights beaches that aren’t much-visited: wild beaches, beaches that have exceptional views, beaches that offer really good snorkelling, or solitude, or a sense of adventure. And, of course, some that are great for just chilling, too.
Pantai Kelating
Half an hour north-west of the famous Tanah Lot temple, Pantai Kelating is a quiet, black sand beach that, come late afternoon when the day is cooler, is a wonderful beach on which to take long walks. When the tide is low, wander around the base of the headland to the west of the beach and discover secret bays, or climb on to the headland to take in the view from alongside the small shrine, Pura Tegal Linggah. Thirsty? Where the road meets the beach there’s a small warung, a simple restaurant, that sells fresh coconuts.
Getting there :
From Jalan Bypass Tanah Lot, follow the signs to a resort called Soori (it’s well-marked), or type “Pura Segara, Kelating” into Google Maps.
When to go :
Early morning and late afternoons are best; at low tide you’ll be able to explore further.
Pantai Soka
Pantai Soka is a wonderfully wild beach. From the main road to Gilimanuk you can catch a glimpse of the beach as you cross over a narrow river: at the river mouth there is a small limestone island smothered with vegetation, and waves crashing around it. If you venture down to the beach you’ll be rewarded with a desolate bay that’s hugged by steep cliffs, and ragged volcanic rock pools. When there are ceremonies near the tiny island, which is often, the beach is brightened up by people wearing traditional ceremonial clothing, flower offerings and temple umbrellas.
Getting there :
As the main road from Denpasar to Gilimanuk drops down to the coast and veers west you’ll see a large parking area and cafe, signed “Pantai Soka”. Most vehicles stop to use the shop; few people venture down to the beach. There is an entrance fee of 30p.
When to go :
Pantai Soka is prettiest during the dry season (during the rains the sea is often muddy brown).
Rambut Siwi
While Rambut Siwi temple, one of Bali’s seven sea temples, is magnificent, the beach below it is simply out of this world. The black volcanic sand seems to stretch for ever from the cave in the cliff below the temple out to sea and for deserted miles along the coast. Close to sunset the view from the temple across the beach, which is fringed with rice paddies, is phenomenal. Currents are strong so swimming isn’t recommended, but the beach is perfect for contemplative beach strolls, and moody photographs.
Getting there :
Take the main road from Denpasar towards Gilimanuk. Ramput Siwi is a 10-minute drive from Medewi (a rocky beach loved by surfers for the long left-hand reef break).
When to go :
The cooler early mornings and late afternoons are the most pleasant time of day here.